Recherchetool für Materialien

Research Tool for Materials

The materials database contains media on our key topics of working conditions in the textile and clothing industry and the environmental impact of clothing. The types of media include studies, guidelines and reports, as well as films, podcasts and web tools.

Tamil Nadu is the center of yarn production, in this region there are about 2,000 spinning mills. Tamil Nadu’s textile industry is often characterised by violations of workers’ fundamental rights along the entire supply chain. For foreign producers and brand companies, it is particularly difficult to influence the lower stages of production, such as spinning mills. There is usually little transparency and there are major challenges in terms of social standards and working conditions: Exploitation through flat-rate contracts, wages below the official minimum wage, excessive overtime, repression of trade unions, lack of freedom of association and gender-based violence pose dangers to local workers. In most cases, there is no lack of relevant laws and regulations, but rather of compliance and enforcement. In addition, the lack of knowledge of workers about their rights and the lack of awareness of violations on the part of management prove to be a problem. The aim of the alliance initiative is the systemic improvement of working conditions in the textile and clothing industry in Tamil Nadu, South India.

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The collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh in April, 2013 resulting in the death and injury of more than 2000 workers from the country’s export garment industry was one of the worst industrial disasters in recorded history. The Tragedy Galvanized: A Range of Stakeholders to Take Action to Prevent Future Disasters. Prominent in these efforts were two multi-stakeholder agreements which brought together lead buyers, trade union and NGOs in a concerted effort to improve health and safety conditions in the industry. These initiatives represent a move away from the buyer-driven compliance-based model that continues to dominate CSR to what is being described as a ‘cooperation-based’ model, which brings together multiple stakeholders who affect, and are affected, by the business operations of lead multinational corporations (MNCs) in global value chains. This paper is concerned with the experiences and perceptions of workers with regard to these new initiatives. It examines competing interpretations of stakeholder analysis within the CSR literature and uses these to frame its key research question: Has the shift from compliance to co-operation as the basis of CSR been a promising way forward or merely a shift in rhetoric? We use a survey of garment workers to explore the extent to which these initiatives have brought about improvements in wages and working conditions in the garment industry, where progress has been slowest and why.

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The state of Tamil Nadu is the largest producer of cotton yarn in India and a global sourcing hub for readymade garments in recent years. The Spinning Mill Industry is of Major Importance: Tthe State and Tthe National Economy. A publication by the Tamil Nadu government claims that India is the world's largest cotton yarn producer after China, responsible for a little over one-fifth of yarn production worldwide. 35 t40% of this yarn is produced in Tamil Nadu, which is home tapproximately 1,600 mills employing between 200,000 and 400,000 workers. 30% of this yarn is used in the export factories in Tamil Nadu, whproduce for brands like C&A, H&M, Marks and Spencer, Primark, Walmart, Zara and a lot of other brands.An unknown share of this yarn is used in other garment hubs in India that produce garments for the export. Yarn produced in Tamil Nadu is alsused for the domestic market and for the production of exported home textiles. Furthermore, a 2012 estimation suggests that over 20% of the production is exported directly tgarment producing countries like Bangladesh and China.Previous SOMand ICN research identified five factories under the Bangladesh Accord for Building and Fire Safety whsource from twspinning mills in Tamil Nadu. Seven if your shirt is not ‘Made in India’, the yarn might be. The India Committee of the Netherlands has worked with SOM(Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations) and with Mondiaal FNV for several years now tdraw attention tthe deplorable working conditions in the Tamil Nadu mills.

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Graduation from LDC status will have a significant impact on the textiles and clothing (T&C) exports of Asian graduating LDCs, reported: Bangladesh, Cambodia, Lao People’s Democratic Republic (PDR), Myanmar, and Nepal. The COVID-19 global pandemic hit the T&C sector hard, and these countries must now also prepare for any potential graduation-related challenges — including the loss of some trade preferences — to ensure a smooth transition from LDC status. How they cope will contractually depend on the extent to which such adjustments can cushion the impact on their T&C sector.

This synthesis report is based on a number of studies undertaken by several UN agencies and the World Trade Organization (WTO) into various aspects of Asian LDCs’ T&C trade and their interactions with LDC graduation-related adjustment challenges. The underlying studies particularly located such issues as individual countries’ market access provisions after graduation; the nature of their participation in the T&C global value chain (GVC) and associated implications for policy options; firm-level perceptions and preparedness about graduation-related challenges and export prospects; and perspectives of global fashion brands and retailers on their future sourcing strategy in connection to LDC graduation.

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The article describes the current state and dynamics of business activity of the apparel industry in Ukraine. The quantitative and qualitative indicators of the activity of apparel enterprises in the period 2015-1019 are analyzed. The strengths and weaknesses of the Ukrainian apparel industry have been identified. It is shown that Ukrainian apparel manufacturers can be competitive both in the domestic and international markets. Geographical proximity to Europe and signed Free Trade Agreement with EU giving Ukraine a clear advantage against producers in Central Asia and Far East. However, there are several problems facing the apparel industry. Among the main problems are the improvements of the management system of the apparel enterprise. In article was proposed to use outsourcing services as one of the ways to improve the apparel enterprise management system.

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