Recherchetool für Materialien

Research Tool for Materials

The materials database contains media on our key topics of working conditions in the textile and clothing industry and the environmental impact of clothing. The types of media include studies, guidelines and reports, as well as films, podcasts and web tools.

The publication addresses the circumstances of the modern form of slavery in spinning mills in Tamil Nadu, India, which has so far been discussed under the heading of Sumangali, now referred to as modern slavery or camp work.
It focuses on the following three areas:
How do the nature and structure of the textile and clothing industry, together with government funding, influence workers' wages and working conditions at the beginning of the global supply chain?
What are the textile industry, government and civil society doing to improve the working and living conditions of workers engaged in modern slavery?
How can a better balance be achieved between economic growth and the rights of workers in the textile and clothing industry?
These points are dealt with in four chapters with the aim of finding opportunities for change that take into account local, cultural and socio-political circumstances. The study provides an overview of Tamil Nadu’s textile industry, the working conditions there, the proposals, the measures taken by the government, including the non-actions, and finally the responses from civil society.

Editorial team: Burckhardt, Dr., Gisela; Hergt, Johanna; Fischbeck

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H&M operates in 61 markets with 3,900 stores; works with 900 suppliers construct 1,900 factories; And employs more than 116,000 employees across their global production network. H&M saw sales rise globally in 2015 and plans to open 425 new stores in 2016. Brands like H&M wield the potential to transform working conditions through their supply chains. Recognizing their responsibility to uphold human rights at work, H&M has set itself apart from other brands by committing to ensure fair living wages, safe workplaces and accountability for rights violations within their supply chains.
[...] this report revisits the status of H&M’s commitments to decent work through the lens of rights at work as they are protected under International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions and other instruments.
Shedding light on gaps in implementation of H&M commitments, violations of international labour standards and challenges H&M may face in upholding commitments to decent work, this report contributes new research collected through interviews with 251 workers in Cambodia and India engaged in H&M supply chains. These recent findings, collected between August and October 2015, are located in context of both previous studies on H&M supply chains in Cambodia and India and the broader context of the global production network.

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This country study should provide a clear and concise picture of the industry, labour law, labour conditions and industrial relations within Bulgaria's textile and garment industry. This version contains information collected in 2016, but the data and figures were revised and updated in 2019. The study is prepared through gathering information about national laws and local stakeholders’ views on labour issues within the Bulgarian garment industry.

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This report takes a closer look at labour rights in the Chinese footwear industry and the current situation of workers in the footwear sector. The people who work at the factories that supply European brands told of, among other infringements, low wages, involuntary overtime, excessive protection from health and safety risks, state violence to suppress strikes, unpaid social insurance contributions and excessive severance payments. All of the above is happening despite the fact that China has progressive labour laws, especially in comparison with other producing countries. What is more, most large footwear companies today have codes of conduct meant to curb labour law infringements by suppliers. China is by far the global leader in footwear production: It turned out over 15.7 billion pairs of shoes in 2014 alone.

editorial: Bullerdieck, Lena; A 4-page fact sheet of the same name is also available for the study

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