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The FEMNET project consultants Marijke Mulder and Anni Korts-Laur at the fair stand at Fair Handel Stuttgart. Photo: © FEMNETThe FEMNET project consultants Marijke Mulder and Anni Korts-Laur at the fair stand at Fair Handel Stuttgart. Photo: © FEMNETThe Fair Handel trade fair took place in Stuttgart from 25 to 28 April 2019. FEMNET was present on site to present the first results of the current studies on working conditions in the workwear industry in Tunisia and India.

Marijke Mulder, FEMNET Project Officer, presented the results during the panel discussion ’The fashion revolution. Opportunities and challenges in textile production”, including SethuLakshmy Chakkenchath, a member of the Fairtrade Producers Network NAPP (the Network of Asia and Pacific Producers), Rapha Breyer from TransFair e.V. and Deniz Köksal from Reutlingen University, who presented his research results from Vietnam and Indonesia.

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A violent scene in the middle of Bonn's city centre: Again and again the overseer raises his hand against the seamstress and leaves a blue handprint on her white clothes with every symbolic hitting, pinching, holding. Exhausted, her head sinks to the table. “Faster! There is no pause now! Back to work!" On the occasion of the Rana Plaza Memorial Day, Bonn activists drew attention to the problematic working conditions in the fashion industry with an action theatre on 24 April 2019.

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Mother who lost her daughter in the collapse of the Rana Plaza building. Photo: © FEMNETMother who lost her daughter in the collapse of the Rana Plaza building. Photo: © FEMNETBonn. Exactly six years ago, 1,134 seamstresses died in the rubble of a factory building in Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh. More than 1,800 people were injured. In the ‘Rana Plaza’ building, five textile factories were producing, many for large fashion companies, whose products are also hanging in our wardrobes.

After the disaster, the entire fashion industry declared ‘Never again Rana Plaza!’. But what is the situation today? Six years after the terrible catastrophe, repression and poverty wages dominate Bangladesh's garment industry. Progress in making factories safe is under threat.

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Also in Tunisia, a lot of clothing is produced, fashion as well as workwear. A large proportion of exports go to Europe. Photo © FEMNETAlso in Tunisia, a lot of clothing is produced, fashion as well as workwear. A large proportion of exports go to Europe. Photo © FEMNET

Background: Study on workwear

FEMNET wants to find out what the working conditions in the production of workwear look like. In order to convince local buyers and decision-makers in public administrations even more successfully how useful it is to switch to sustainable procurement procedures, FEMNET is preparing a study on the working conditions in the production of workwear in cooperation with partner organisations in India and Tunisia.

Our research revealed that information specifically on workwear is to a large extent outdated and only very scattered - a large part of the studies available today focus on fashion. We know from experience reports that in practice there are usually similar problems as in fashion production. Nevertheless, the sectors are structured differently and there are other requirements for the final products.

Part of the preparations were study trips, during which the FEMNET employees Anni Korts-Laur, responsible for the coordination of the study and Katharina Edinger, responsible for later communication measures, got to know the project partners in order to ensure the safe and exact implementation of our transnational study together. In the first part of our travel reports, they share their impressions of their stay in Tunisia in October 2018. Anni-Korts-Laur will report on her study trip to India in December 2018 in the second part shortly.

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according logoSince November 2018, the decision of the Supreme Court of Bangladesh has been repeatedly postponed at monthly intervals. So also on 15 April 2019. Supposedly, it is now to be decided on May 19 whether the Accord, the building and fire protection agreement that has provided for around 1600 safe export factories, can remain in the country.

The government wants to get rid of the independent inspectors and claims to be able to carry out the factory inspections itself. However, this is questioned by both international buyers and the Clean Clothes Campaign.

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Displaced workers inside BD 24 2 2019 copy FEMNETDisplaced workers are demanding their jobs back. Photo: @ FEMNET

Shocking figures are reported by our partner organisations from Bangladesh: More than 3,000 workers are being charged, and more than 11,000 workers from 105 factories have been laid off since January 2019. Their names are on a blacklist, nowhere can they find a job.

Their crime: They protested against the far too small increase in the monthly minimum wage to 8000 Taka (83,- EUR). The unions had demanded double that (166 euros), after all, the minimum wage has not been adjusted for 5 years. For the majority of workers, the basic wage hardly increases as a result of the revision. Hardly any family can live on the new minimum wage. Further background can be found in our Report of 16 January 2019.

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Blue Hands #Against Violence: FEMNET calls for solidarity in Bonn with the start of the campaign.
One in three textile workers are victims of structural violence in the workplace. Fashion brands aren't doing enough to protect women in their suppliers. For this reason, FEMNET is launching the campaign #Counterviolence on International Women's Day. With hands painted in blue, the supporters invite you to participate in order to set a sign against violence against women.

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On the occasion of the World Economic Forum in Davos, more than 150 European non-governmental organisations, including the CorA network, are launching a petition against Investor State Dispute Settlements (ISDS) and for a binding UN agreement on business and human rights (UN-Treaty).

In doing so, they call on the EU and its Member States to withdraw from trade and investment agreements containing special rights of action and to refrain from concluding such agreements with special rights of action in the future. They also call for legal possibilities to hold corporations accountable for human rights violations.

The petition seeks to build pressure on the EU and its Member States to push for a binding UN agreement on business and human rights (Binding Treaty).

Europe-wide petition ‘Protecting human rights – stopping corporate lawsuits’: www.stopisds.org/de

German Value Chain Act to make global supply chains more sustainable

Bangladesh textile factory. Photo: © FEMNETBangladesh textile factory. Photo: © FEMNET

Bonn. Many German companies benefit from legal loopholes in order to have their goods produced cheaply abroad. To date, they have only been required voluntarily to take action against human rights violations against their suppliers. This should change in the future: According to media information, the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) has drafted a value chain law, which is to be published soon. Violations should be punishable by imprisonment and fines.

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Workers after a meeting in the office of the FEMNET partner organisation BCWS. Photo: S. Marx ⁇ FEMNETWorkers after a meeting in the office of the FEMNET partner organisation BCWS. Photo: S. Marx ⁇ FEMNET

Bonn. Workers protesting for the lawful implementation of wage increases are currently being fired, detained and harassed. The Bangladeshi trade union NGWF informs FEMNET:

  • Hundreds of workers were arrested.
  • The 4,000 workers were indicted.
  • More than 30 workers have been sued in court.
  • About 7,000 workers were laid off.

On 1 February 2019, the NGWF union protested and called for the arrested workers to be immediately released, false accusations to be withdrawn and dismissed workers to be reinstated.

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Bonn/Berlin. Living wages are a key element of decent work. In the countries of the Global South, however, a large proportion of employees cannot live humanely on hard-earned wages. This also applies, and in particular, to employees in the textile and clothing industry. The Alliance for Sustainable Textiles, founded in 2014 on the initiative of Federal Development Minister Dr. Gerd Müller, has started to change this. The civil society organisations in the Textile Alliance are now calling on all members to follow their commitment to action and to step up their efforts to pay living wages.

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Basic wage demo 27 July 2018. Photo: © NGWFPhoto: © NGWF

Bonn. Following the recent revision of minimum wages in the textile sector, thousands of workers have taken to the streets in Bangladesh in protest. In the capital Dhaka, police fired rubber bullets and tear gas into the crowd, after which one worker died and many others were injured.

‘The campaign for clean clothing strongly condemns the violent curtailment of the right to demonstrate“, says Artemisa Ljarja, Rapid Action Coordinator of the Clean Clothes Campaign.

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