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This factsheet takes a closer look at labour rights in the Chinese footwear industry and the current situation of workers in the footwear sector. The people who work at the factories that supply European brands told of, among other infringements, low wages, involuntary overtime, insufficient protection from health and safety risks, state violence to suppress strikes, unpaid social insurance contributions and insufficient severance payments. All of the above is happening despite the fact that China has progressive labour laws, especially in comparison with other producing countries. What is more, most large footwear companies today have codes of conduct meant to curb labour law infringements by suppliers. China is by far the global leader in footwear production: it turned out over 15.7 billion pairs of shoes in 2014 alone.

Redaktion: Bullerdieck, Lena

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The report uncovers the grim reality of homeworkers in India, the invisible female workforce who stitch the leather uppers of shoes bound for sale in the UK and Europe. The shoe industry is an immense global business, with over 24 billion pairs produced last year alone, equating to three pairs of shoes made for every single person living. Complex global supply chains mean that tracing a pair of shoes from the shop floor through the factories, homes and tanneries in which they originated is virtually impossible. A lack of regulations allows this multi-billion pound industry to continue to operate without transparency. Issues with workers safety and poverty wages abound in an industry built on exploitation, however those at the bottom of the chain are homeworkers. These are the ‘invisible’ women who stitch leather uppers in their home, earning next to nothing, with no security or benefits.

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The summary gives an overview on the situation of homeworkers in India, the invisible female workforce who stitch the leather uppers of shoes bound for sale in the UK and Europe. The shoe industry is an immense global business, with over 24 billion pairs produced last year alone, equating to three pairs of shoes made for every single person living. Complex global supply chains mean that tracing a pair of shoes from the shop floor through the factories, homes and tanneries in which they originated is virtually impossible. A lack of regulations allows this multi-billion pound industry to continue to operate without transparency. Issues with workers safety and poverty wages abound in an industry built on exploitation, however those at the bottom of the chain are homeworkers. These are the ‘invisible’ women who stitch leather uppers in their home, earning next to nothing, with no security or benefits.

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The report gives an overview of the Indian Leather and Footwear Industry in terms of its geographical distribution, its structure and its position in world trade. It gives an introduction into labour rights in India regarding the freedom of association, social insurance, occupational safety and health as well as labour contracts and minimum wages. Based on a survey, the report sums up findings regarding labour rights violations in the Indian leather and footwear industry. Concluding, it gives recommendations to the Indian leather and footwear companies, the Indian government as well as EU member states.

Redaktion: Bhattacharjee, Anannya; Deter, Melanie; Deutsche Version unter dem Titel „Auf der Stelle (ge)treten. Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen in der indischen Leder- und Schuhindustrie“ erschienen.

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Die Broschüre gibt einen Überblick über die Produktion eines Lederschuhs mit all ihren Stationen. Dabei fokussiert sie auf Aspekte und Auswirkungen, die bedenklich sind für Mensch und Umwelt. Sie startet mit einem Überblick zu Zahlen der Lederindustrie und zeigt die Verbindungen zur Fleischproduktion auf. An ökologischen Auswirkungen beleuchtet sie den Verbrauch von Boden und Wasser. Zur Lederproduktion geht sie auf die geographische Verbreitung ein und fokussiert anschließend auf die Lederproduktion in Italien. Hier problematisiert sie insbesondere die Arbeitsbedingungen und Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, wie der übermäßige und missbräuchliche Einsatz von Leiharbeit und illegaler Anstellungspraktiken. Abschließend gibt die Broschüre Tipps für einen nachhaltigen Konsum von Leder und Handlungsmöglichkeiten zur Verbesserung der Arbeitsbedingungen in der Lederindustrie.

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